[Solved] HELP: RS Media stuck at WowWee splash [video]

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some1l8
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[Solved] HELP: RS Media stuck at WowWee splash [video]

I've checked all wire connections and cleaned all corrocsions.

When I disconnect the back from its body, it still boot up like this. It seems the back circuit board (with some samsung memories, sd card and usb sockets) doesn't communicate with the motor driver board. Perhaps that's why I can't reflash the system with an sd card. It doesn't read sd card at all.

video

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xCKExkBKiOw

That's all it can do. After power up dance, there is no sound, no leg movement and no mode change. Only very limited upper body actions. LCD screen is stuck at 'wowwee' splash.

Please HELP.

BTW I'm new to this robot. What is serial port hack? I've seen alot of people talk about it. but it seems there's no clear explanation. Please can anyone explain what it is and how to do it. Thanks

 

Vader
Vader's picture

It's most likely a problem with the software. If you have an SD card, try taking it out and see if he'll boot. Also make sure you don't have any rsupdate folders on the internal memory (accessed when you plug him in with a USB cable) or SD card.

If none of the above suggestions work, try running the firmware dump script and posting the contents of ls.txt, mount.txt and dmesg.txt. Those 3 files are pretty big, so it's probably a good idea to upload them somewhere else.

The serial hack basically allows you to access RS Media's internal Linux OS and Bootloader. There are instructions on how to do it here: http://www.robocommunity.com/article/13016/Connecting-to-the-RS-Media-Li...

If you don't need bootloader access (which is used for reflashing), then just use the USB Console instead.

some1l8
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There's no difference whether sd card is in the slot or not, I've done both, his just boots up the same way.

I'm not sure if there's rsupdate fold in the internal memory. When robot is connected to computer via USB, computer doesn't recognise the hardware, installation was failed and computer asks me to find a driver. I don't know where I can find driver. Anyway, computer does respond when he is connected.

Following the dump instruction, I 'Copy the rsmdump and rsupdate directories onto the robot's SD Card's Root Directory.' and boot up. but I don't see those 3 files in sd card. I think my robot boots up with out access to sd card first.

I think the communications between driver board and memory board is somehow broken.

Thanks

Vader
Vader's picture

When you use the firmware dump script on the SD, do you get a message on the screen saying "Firmware Dump in Progess" or something similar? If you do, make sure you don't turn RS Media off before the message "Firmware Dump Complete".

The "Media Board" should still boot even without communication to the "Robot Board", so it's unlikely that's the problem.

The reason you can still use some movement functions is because the Robot Board handles movement and IR commands.

some1l8
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Thanks for the quick reply.

No, it's the same as video. It doesn't show anything but wowwee splash. I think the problem is somewhere in 'media board'. It seems robot doesn't read sd card which is 1G and FAT formated.

Vader
Vader's picture

Hmm, it should be able to read off a 1GB SD. Can you start the USB Console from an rsupdate?

some1l8
some1l8's picture

I'm afraid no.
Computer can't establish a usb connection with robot for some reason.

some1l8
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my 'spares' just arrived.

I replace media board, guess what! He's alive now! I'm so happy.

Let him enjoy his new heart for while!

I'll upload some photos of these two boards. The spare one looks like V2.

http://www.robocommunity.com/forum/thread/17946/Two-Media-Boards-Which-one-is-V2-HD-photos/;jsessionid=E511902BD99E6003ED01D59DE4C27393

Does anyone know what the differency is between v1 and v2 robot? apart from media board.

FreddyA
FreddyA's picture

Hello some118, nice repair job. One of the diffrences in the v2 is some there is 32mb / 64 and obviously the firmware virsion. I am curious about how you got 2 rsm media boards? Do you have any plans for the one you replaced?

Freddy

some1l8
some1l8's picture

I just bought a broken robot. I was lucky the media board is working.
For the faulty board, I'm trying to fix it. The board looks ok, there's no visible damage. I think it can be fixed.

FreddyA
FreddyA's picture

Oh, ok. I thought that you had bought 2 media boards. It's always good to have at least 2 rsms.

Freddy

Vader
Vader's picture

some1l8 said: I just bought a broken robot. I was lucky the media board is working. For the faulty board, I'm trying to fix it. The board looks ok, there's no visible damage. I think it can be fixed.

There's probably nothing wrong with the actual board, since the "Wowwee" screen is showing that the bootloader has actually started. There is most likely something wrong with its Linux OS.
I think doing the serial hack and reflashing the firmware should get it working again. 

Helibot
Helibot's picture

Hi Some1l8,
I agree with Vader, the faulty board may not be broken, its could just be firmware corruption. Doing the serial hack and reflashing the firmware has a good chance of getting it going.
Does the serial hack on the second board work? (Although you would also need something to convert the 3.3 level signals to rs232 for connecting to a PC , or a wirless/bluetooth link that can take 3.3\volt signals.)
If you do the serial hack on the second board you can power it up outside of the robot to try to get it working - its much easier to work on it that way.....I know this from experience!!!!! Let me know if you want any more details on how to connect it.

Cheers
Helibot

some1l8
some1l8's picture

That's what I can find on ebay in the UK. It supports 3.3v and 5v. From Vader's link http://www.robocommunity.com/article/13016/Connecting-to-the-RS-Media-Li... , only 3 pins are connected. How do I choose 3.3v on this converter. Thanks

Jamie
Jamie's picture

Hello some1l8,

Please look at the picture below I have made for you. It tells you what to do.
When you have finished soldering, please read this: http://www.robocommunity.com/article/13016/Connecting-to-the-RS-Media-Linux-Console-Port/

Cheers,

Jamie Kugelmann

FreddyA
FreddyA's picture

Hi Jamie, thanks for the previous post. I got one of those usb2serial and your picture was really helpful. I'll start upgrading my v1 RSMs tomorrow.

Cheers
Freddy

some1l8
some1l8's picture

I just received my usb2serial convertor which is CP2102, support 3.3v and 5v, while computer's usb is 5v. If you don't choose the voltage, the voltage would damage the media board which runs on 3.3v. After reading milw's article again ( http://www.robocommunity.com/article/13016/Connecting-to-the-RS-Media-Li...), he did point out pin1 on media board is VDD (3.3v), so just SOLDER 3.3v TO PIN1. So you need to solder 4 wires on this module instead of 3 on Prop Plug.

FreddyA
FreddyA's picture

Hello some118, I'm not totally certain, but I think that the 3.3v and 5v are supply power for instance if you wanted to power a peripheral. not sure what will happen if you solder 3.3v output from the rsm to the 3.3v output from the usb2serial. I'm not far from powering up my RSM with just the 3 wires jamie pointed out and so I'll post my results.
Freddy

Jamie
Jamie's picture

Hello some1l8,

 

You are not going to tell me that you need to solder 4 wires to make the thing work.

If you do end up ignoring me and soldering the 3.3v up to it, go ahead and fry your media board.

 

Cheers,

 

Jamie Kugelmann

Helibot
Helibot's picture

Hi guys,
I tried powering my bluetooth serial adapter from the 3.3v pin 1 - it didnt blow up, but it also didnt work properly - I kept getting corrupted characters. I guessed that it couldnt supply enough current to drive the Blutooth link :-(. I think my bluetooth module was trying to draw 40ma - but I am not sure - I cant actually remember clearly :-(. How much does the module you are using draw?

(BTW Mine worked fine (at 115200) when I powered it from batteries or from RSMedia 5V/7.5V (with a voltage regulator))
Cheers
Helibot

some1l8
some1l8's picture

now, i understand why jamie didn't connect the 3.3v pin. when he did serial hack, the media board was still connected to the robot. While i took the media board out of robot, it's completely disconnected from robot. that's why i think the board need power. thanks for the hint, helibot.

FreddyA
FreddyA's picture

OK, I successfully have connected to the guts using 3 wires. GND TX RX. here are some pictures.

GET ONE! http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=280545996389&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT

These as well as Bluetooth2Serial will come included in the RSV3 RSMM software package and in the DIY RSV3 Upgrade kit. 

 

Here is the finished project.

items; 1 male mini stereo pin on a 7' cable, and several female jacks for all the robots. Oh and a floss box and usb extension to case and protect the usb2serial device. Use what you got haha.

Freddy

FreddyA
FreddyA's picture

some118, I'm not sure if the 3.3v out pad on the media board is a good input for 3.3v in from the usb2serial device. I would power the board from at the same point it recieves power from the main board. Helibot

@Helibot, could you jump in with the info for a point to power the media board.

FreddyA
FreddyA's picture

Helibot, I'm at a loss with my bluetooth haha. I got this one http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=270625898146&ssPageNa... and now i don't know where to start. is does say 3.3v and that it is Host Interface: USB/UART do you have any ideas? Also it has PCM and analog audio input interface so that sounds interesting to me for two way audio.

Freddy

Jamie
Jamie's picture

 

FreddyA said: OK, I successfully have connected to the guts using 3 wires. GND TX RX. here are some pictures. GET ONE! http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=280545996389&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT These as well as Bluetooth2Serial will come included in the RSV3 RSMM software package and in the DIY RSV3 Upgrade kit. 

 

Hello Freddy,

 

Congratulations on getting your serial hack to work. You actually listened to me and only connected GND, RX and TX! Good work Freddy.

Have fun with your serial hack!

 

Cheers,

 

Jamie Kugelmann

Jamie
Jamie's picture

FreddyA said: Helibot, I'm at a loss with my bluetooth haha. I got this one http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=270625898146&ssPageName=ST... and now i don't know where to start. is does say 3.3v and that it is Host Interface: USB/UART do you have any ideas? Also it has PCM and analog audio input interface so that sounds interesting to me for two way audio. Freddy

Hello Freddy,

 

With the bluetooth module you are using there, I think that might be what they use in the PC bluetooth dongles, because the connection looks like a USB connection and I think you can plug it straight into your PC's USB port...

Maybe get a schematic or datasheet for the module you are using and see which pins are RX, TX, 5V and GND.

 

Cheers,

 

Jamie Kugelmann

Jamie
Jamie's picture

 

Helibot said: Hi guys, I tried powering my bluetooth serial adapter from the 3.3v pin 1 - it didnt blow up, but it also didnt work properly - I kept getting corrupted characters. I guessed that it couldnt supply enough current to drive the Blutooth link :-(. I think my bluetooth module was trying to draw 40ma - but I am not sure - I cant actually remember clearly :-(. How much does the module you are using draw? (BTW Mine worked fine (at 115200) when I powered it from batteries or from RSMedia 5V/7.5V (with a voltage regulator)) Cheers Helibot

 

Hello Helibot,

 

It doesn't matter how much current the thing uses, It's only voltage.

On my backpack, I use a 5V power supply (Proto Board regulates power and outputs it to GND, 5V, and 3.3V pins. If I try to power my XBee from 3.3v it won't work too well.)

So you need to keep using the RSM's feet batteries with the voltage regulator.

You can see on my blog if you scroll down a bit. http://computersnmore.dyndns.org/blog/

 

Cheers,

 

Jamie Kugelmann

FreddyA
FreddyA's picture

Hi Jamie, thanks. I have requested a data sheet. I can see lots of contact points along the edges. It is supposed to (somehow) connect to pc for settings and options, then I can connect it (somehow) to the robot serial port. I appreciate you looking into this, thanks again.

@helibot, I power my xbee with no problem on the 3.3v pad on the media board on my rechargeable packs or mains it works great with just the pad No.1 3.3v.

Freddy

Helibot
Helibot's picture

Hi Freddy,
The BT dongle looks correct (from the data on the Ebay add at least.)
-Bluetooth UART RS232 serial Converter Module can transfer UART data through the wireless Bluetooth
-small size with 3.3V input
-Operating Voltage:3.3V

You should be able to connect the TX , TX & Gnd from RSMedia to the RX,TX and Gnd on the module. But you will need to power it with 3.3 volts from RS Media. I found that my module drew too much current if connected to Pin 1. But you could try it - maybe your module draws less. If you have got a detailed data sheet then see if you can find about Average and Max current ratings. Or email me the data and I will have a look.

Regarding a connection point for 3.3V power- I have a wire running up from the DC input and used it as input to a 3.3volt regulator then feed the 3.3v to the BT module. There is probably a better way to connect it, but this is the way I did it. I also used two 1.2v rechargeable batteries (to give 3.4 volts) - Using batteries is a good safe way to first configure and check that the module works well (and at full speed). Then worry about the 3.3v wire up later.
Cheers
Helibot

Helibot
Helibot's picture

Hi Jamie,
>It doesn't matter how much current the thing uses, It's only voltage.
No, sorry thats not correct mate. When connecting a circuit to a power source , you need to consider the voltage AND the current drawn. The voltage must be correct ( or near) and the voltage source must be able to supply at least the amount of current your circuit will draw. Try connecting your RSMEdia to a 7v 100mA power supply and see what happens? He wont power up , cos he draws 400mA plus during bootup......

My bluetooth dongle was 3.3v , so it was the correct voltage. When I connect it to the 3.3v on RSMedia Pin1 it doesnt work properly. If I connect it to batteries or exernal 3.3v its fine. So I am pretty sure that the problem was that the dongle couldnt draw enough power from the ccty on RSMedia. Wireless dongles (Bluetooth,802.1 etc) will likely draw more power than wired coverters because they have to power an actual transmitter and receiver ccty).

Different bluetooth dongles may behave differently if connected to pin1 - some may draw less power so may work OK.

Cheers
Helibot.

Helibot
Helibot's picture

Hi Some1I8 and Freddy,
>some118, I'm not sure if the 3.3v out pad on the media board is a good input
>for 3.3v in from the usb2serial device. I would power the board from at the >same point it recieves power from the main board. Helibot
>@Helibot, could you jump in with the info for a point to power the media board.
For the USB2Serial device you should only need the 3 wires (tx,rx,gnd) power should be supplied from the PC where you have plugged the dongle in. SO what Jamie said and what Freddy has done sounds right. (But for the wireless Bluetooth connection you will need to powerfrom RSMedia as well. (See my posts above)

BTW you may find that the performance of the usb2serial device varies depending on the length of the cable. Ie If you have a very long cable from RSMedia to the USB2Serial device the RSMedia may have trouble driving the 3.3v signals over this cable. If you have troubles (ie sometimes missing or corrupted data from or to RSMeida) try making the cable shorter (ie only a few inches) and then use a USB extender cable to put the Usb2serial device near the robot and away from the PC.

Cheers
Helibot

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