the IR Demodulator is a simple 40 mhz Rx receiver that can be found in all VCR's,DVD players, TV's, or you can just buy one from Radio Shack. Just make sure you know which pin is the Vcc, GND, Tx lines. If you need help let me know once you get your Rx Demodulator and I'll help you out what pin goes where..
*Frowns* I'm gettinig a sudden feeling of deja vu... I think you mean khz, not mhz. You'll also be better off with a 38khz one, though a 40khz one will also work (with a slight reduction in range, you'd be unlikely to even notice the difference though).
LMAO Nocturnal "my Mind loosing it" I have no idea why I keep calling it mHz when I know it's a kHz but oh well thanks "again" for the correction and yes the 38kHz would be better but a 40kHz is just too easy to find in almost anything..
Thanks GWJax and Nocturnal. I have got the (38kHz Infrared (IR) Receiver Module ) http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2049727 from Radion Shack. Can you please let me know which pin goes into which in Head connector of the Robosapien V1?
There doesn't seem to be a datasheet online for the IR receiver (hopefully such information will be provided with it), and the pinout on the is not always the same. There is also a chance the voltages won't match, and it won't work.
Basically, there are 3 pins, GND, VCC and Singal. You want to connect (on the head connector) GND to GND, VCC to VCC and Signal to IR-OUT (the robosapiens main circuit board is labeled, just below the head connector).
"Just shakes head and sighs"
on the Radio Shack IR receiver if you are looking down with the oval looking at you and the pins at you as well the pin out is: Left = output, middle = GND, right = Vcc.
Warning: if you are going to reinsert it back inside the top part of the head, this will envolve you cutting the head open after you remove the screws that are hidden behind the shield cover buttons. so if you don't want to do this then mount it else where.
On the connector that says HEAD the wires you want are the Grey, Black and White
If you go by Nocturnals suggestion on looking at the back of the board you will surly mess up these connections at least on my version of the board Ver 02 which is miss labeled. So let me make it simple. Grey Wire = Vcc, Black wire = GRD and White wire = Output. Please cut these 3 wires from the plug leaving your self some room to re-solder in new wire for your Rx Receiver. Also you may remove the metal shielding form the IR with no ill effect. You will also find that this IR in FULL sun light will still work at the range of at least 15-20 feet even though it says 30 feet.
My robosapiens board is accurate (Don't know revision off the top of my head, but my V2's has an error or two), I don't recall anyone else mentioning errors with the RoboSapiens labeling, but most of the original robosapien hacking was before my time.
I never really mapped my RoboSapien, and unfortunately markcra's website (which is why I never mapped it) doesn't specify wire colour.
I found the voltage range on the features page, and it shouldn't be an issue, as I said, the pinouts are different across different modules, but I assume GWJax is speaking from experience (or he found something I missed).
"laughs" I use the Radio Shack rx receivers for years. The new ones have the oval lens and better filtering from stray IR from entering them. The older ones were the typical old sharp rx receivers that needed the case grounded for better response. I'm not sure if anyone has seen the inside of the head but it is a B**** to get into it because you muse cut it apart even through the alignment pegs. Not sure what type of glue they used but man is it strong.. I'll post a picture of the board tonight which is nothing more than 6 small LEDs and the small IR Rx on a vers small board and that's all.
:) I opened my head up earlier to verify your wiring colours. Its not the first time I've opened it, but I don't recall any troubles, and there is no damage (unlike the lower torso where I had to use a power drill). I'll be interested in seeing how yours differs.
Thanks for the photos Nocturnal, I guess I do have a early version and this is the one I got off e-bay but my other one stays in tacked. It might be as well why my head "V1" was so had to rip it down..
Hey! So I have the same problem but im not up to date on the tech lingo. I've tested my controllers transmitter so I know that the sensor is broken and i've tried to follow the posts to fix it but im not quite understanding - could i get a begginers run through on how to fix this thing? It would be much appreciated.
my V1's IR remote seems to be working (light visible in digital camera when button pressed), it "lives" when turned on, but it wont't "listen" to any commands of the remote.
If anyone can help me: my son will get divorced from his parents if I don't fix this until Xmas.
The IR sensor, or Infrared sensor, is what ties the connection between the remote and robot together. If that doesn't work, you wont have any use for the robot. If the IR sensor in the remotes broken, you can buy one on ebay and replace the sensors. If it's in the robot, it'll be a little more complicated. Pop off the back plate at the back of the head of the V2, and look up where the IR sensor is on the main board and reconnect it. I'm not a complete expert, but you can try this.
the IR Demodulator is a simple 40 mhz Rx receiver that can be found in all VCR's,DVD players, TV's, or you can just buy one from Radio Shack. Just make sure you know which pin is the Vcc, GND, Tx lines. If you need help let me know once you get your Rx Demodulator and I'll help you out what pin goes where..
Jax
*Frowns* I'm gettinig a sudden feeling of deja vu... I think you mean khz, not mhz. You'll also be better off with a 38khz one, though a 40khz one will also work (with a slight reduction in range, you'd be unlikely to even notice the difference though).
LMAO Nocturnal "my Mind loosing it" I have no idea why I keep calling it mHz when I know it's a kHz but oh well thanks "again" for the correction and yes the 38kHz would be better but a 40kHz is just too easy to find in almost anything..
Jax
Thanks GWJax and Nocturnal. I have got the (38kHz Infrared (IR) Receiver Module ) http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2049727 from Radion Shack. Can you please let me know which pin goes into which in Head connector of the Robosapien V1?
Thanks Again - PR.
There doesn't seem to be a datasheet online for the IR receiver (hopefully such information will be provided with it), and the pinout on the is not always the same. There is also a chance the voltages won't match, and it won't work.
Basically, there are 3 pins, GND, VCC and Singal. You want to connect (on the head connector) GND to GND, VCC to VCC and Signal to IR-OUT (the robosapiens main circuit board is labeled, just below the head connector).
"Just shakes head and sighs"
on the Radio Shack IR receiver if you are looking down with the oval looking at you and the pins at you as well the pin out is: Left = output, middle = GND, right = Vcc.
Warning: if you are going to reinsert it back inside the top part of the head, this will envolve you cutting the head open after you remove the screws that are hidden behind the shield cover buttons. so if you don't want to do this then mount it else where.
On the connector that says HEAD the wires you want are the Grey, Black and White
If you go by Nocturnals suggestion on looking at the back of the board you will surly mess up these connections at least on my version of the board Ver 02 which is miss labeled. So let me make it simple. Grey Wire = Vcc, Black wire = GRD and White wire = Output. Please cut these 3 wires from the plug leaving your self some room to re-solder in new wire for your Rx Receiver. Also you may remove the metal shielding form the IR with no ill effect. You will also find that this IR in FULL sun light will still work at the range of at least 15-20 feet even though it says 30 feet.
have fun and I hoped this helped..
Jax
My robosapiens board is accurate (Don't know revision off the top of my head, but my V2's has an error or two), I don't recall anyone else mentioning errors with the RoboSapiens labeling, but most of the original robosapien hacking was before my time.
I never really mapped my RoboSapien, and unfortunately markcra's website (which is why I never mapped it) doesn't specify wire colour.
I found the voltage range on the features page, and it shouldn't be an issue, as I said, the pinouts are different across different modules, but I assume GWJax is speaking from experience (or he found something I missed).
"laughs" I use the Radio Shack rx receivers for years. The new ones have the oval lens and better filtering from stray IR from entering them. The older ones were the typical old sharp rx receivers that needed the case grounded for better response. I'm not sure if anyone has seen the inside of the head but it is a B**** to get into it because you muse cut it apart even through the alignment pegs. Not sure what type of glue they used but man is it strong.. I'll post a picture of the board tonight which is nothing more than 6 small LEDs and the small IR Rx on a vers small board and that's all.
Jax
:) I opened my head up earlier to verify your wiring colours. Its not the first time I've opened it, but I don't recall any troubles, and there is no damage (unlike the lower torso where I had to use a power drill). I'll be interested in seeing how yours differs.
Edit: I opened my robosapiens head, not MY head.
Thanks GWJax and Nocturnal. I will try this today and will post back.
here's a few photos of the inside V1 head. notice the cold soder joints for the IR rx on the board and the mislable of the GND, VRE on the main board
Jax
Never mind about the mislabel I just noticed the test pads after looking at my own post.. hehe
Jax
I can see why those labels might cause confusion. I assume it must be an early version, mine looks more like this.
This is what my actual board looks like.
Thanks for the photos Nocturnal, I guess I do have a early version and this is the one I got off e-bay but my other one stays in tacked. It might be as well why my head "V1" was so had to rip it down..
Jax
Hi It helped ... It worked. Thanks a Lot.
:-) I'm glad to hear that.
congrats PR, it's nice to hear that everything worked out fine..
Jax
Hey! So I have the same problem but im not up to date on the tech lingo. I've tested my controllers transmitter so I know that the sensor is broken and i've tried to follow the posts to fix it but im not quite understanding - could i get a begginers run through on how to fix this thing? It would be much appreciated.
Johnny21
Hello,
my V1's IR remote seems to be working (light visible in digital camera when button pressed), it "lives" when turned on, but it wont't "listen" to any commands of the remote.
If anyone can help me: my son will get divorced from his parents if I don't fix this until Xmas.
Thanks
The IR sensor, or Infrared sensor, is what ties the connection between the remote and robot together. If that doesn't work, you wont have any use for the robot. If the IR sensor in the remotes broken, you can buy one on ebay and replace the sensors. If it's in the robot, it'll be a little more complicated. Pop off the back plate at the back of the head of the V2, and look up where the IR sensor is on the main board and reconnect it. I'm not a complete expert, but you can try this.
Where is it connected? In which part of the card?